April 1,2007
Reprinted with permission | Click here to view original article |
Nearly four years ago, Andrew Rebori closed his popular Rice Military hangout, Tutto Bene, after 16 years of serving Italian comfort fare like lasagne all’amatriciana and spaghetti Napoletana to his loyal clientele. Suffering at the time from serious health problems, the now fit chef has stepped behind the range once again to open Just Dinner, an intimate BYOB in a charming, unmarked, circa-1926 house on Dunlavy at Welch. The name was inspired by a restaurant on Waugh called Just Lunch. One day, Rebori approached the proprietor to ask if she’d like to share the space, allowing him to serve “just dinner,” and the pair did just that until this past October. When a house on Dunlavy just behind his own came on the market, Rebori knew he was fated to relocate his dinner concept there. Between his two properties, he’s planted a vegetable-and-herb garden filled with neatly planted, raised beds that burst lettuce for his simple salads, basil for his homemade pesto and eggplant for his light, perfectly fried eggplant parmesan. Inside, designer Kelly Gale Amen has enhanced the dining experience with exposed wood walls, hardwood floors and a palette of olive and wheat shades — restrained but for some whimsical splashes of marinara-red paint. Just Dinner seats just 24, with a menu of American and Italian comfort fare. Rebori prepares the meals personally and warmly chats up guests before, during and after the meal.
Laurann Claridge
